The Shadow Project at Stone Island

During my research recently into sustainable fashion, I decided to take a route away from standard concepts related to sustainability (organic fibres, recycled fabrics etc.) and instead decided to look at consumer behaviour and attitudes towards clothing. I feel that it is consumer belief and behaviour that is the biggest barrier to sustainability. WE need to change, not the clothing.

The project this research is for is all about designing a collection with a 'slow fashion' ethos, opposing the current culture of throwaway fast fashion.

One area I looked into was that of adaptability of garments- to different functions, seasons and styles. A versatile garment is more likely to have a long life cycle than a trend-driven, function-less piece. This is where I cam across Stone Island's 'Shadow Project'.

The Shadow Project is a clothing collection grounded in the idea of designing for functional needs, combining military, sportswear and outdoor clothing elements.  Designer Errolson Hugh describes it as ‘a research project based within the Stone Island laboratories’  which aims to:

‘explore and investigate the future of state-of-the-art menswear not from an abstract or fashion point of view but from a real and practical standpoint’

(Stone Island 2011).

Fibre, textile, style, colour, wear and use are all considered in the design process of the collection, with each ‘piece’ of a garment being both a technical and an aesthetic  ‘enabler’. A five point grid system is used and each garment is categorised under either ‘Proof’ (waterproof, weatherproof and breathable), ‘Resist’ (hard-wearing), ‘’Augment’ (customisable), ‘Resist’ (lighter weather and wind proofing)  and ‘Skin’ (comfort next to the skin).

A key feature in any Shadow Design collection is hidden features, for example the ‘Stealth’ trench coat appears minimal and tailored but conceals multiple pockets between a double-layered front coat flap. Removable hoods and sections are incorporated into some designs, whilst gussets are added for freedom of movement. One piece is a combined blazer and jacket, with both items being wearable separately.

‘Augment’ pieces include jackets, waistcoats and bomber jackets, all of which are lining pieces which can be attached to any of the jackets in the collection, from any season. With the technological innovation shown in the Shadow project, we could reduce our wardrobe size while increasing it’s function and versatility. Not only this, there are attachable scarf, hood and neck pieces which can be added to any coat or jacket from any season’s collection.

I feel that if clothes can perform for longer, better and in more and multiple ways they are more likely to be treated as lifetime garments rather than throwaway objects. 

If you have a spare few minutes, have a look at this video in which designer Errolson Hugh demonstrates the concept and designs of 'The Shadow Project'.

 As well as being left thoroughly excited by the innovation involved, I was also left with a strange urge to join MI5...

Love, 

Pippa